Practical guide
Everything I learned in 28 trips to Japan. From documents to SIM cards, from bookings to the things nobody tells you.
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Connectivity in Japan is essential: without internet you can't navigate, find trains or translate. I tested both options over several trips.
eSIM (recommended): buy before you leave on Airalo or Nomad. Instant activation on landing, no physical queues. Look for "Japan" plans of 5–15 GB, 2–4 weeks.
Local SIM: available at Narita and Kansai airports (IIJ, IHD, OCN). 15-day data plan ~2,500–3,500 yen. Passport required.
Pocket WiFi: good for groups, rented at the airport. Less convenient than an eSIM because it's an extra device to carry.
Japan has every kind of accommodation: cheap business hotels, traditional ryokan, capsule hotels, minshuku (Japanese B&Bs). The average quality is very high even at modest prices.
When to book: ideally 3–6 months ahead. During hanami (late March – April) and momiji (November) Kyoto sells out months in advance.
The ryokan: at least one night is a must. It includes dinner (kaiseki) and a traditional breakfast. It costs more but is an experience worth the trip on its own.
Most Japanese temples and shrines can be visited freely, paying an entrance ticket (usually 500–1,000 yen) at the gate. But some attractions require advance booking.
Booking required:
Booking recommended (high season): Fushimi Inari is free and always open. Kinkaku-ji, Arashiyama and Nijo-jo are paid at the gate without booking.
Restaurants: for top sushi (Sukiyabashi Jiro, Saito, etc.) you need to book months — sometimes years — ahead. For ramen, yakitori and izakaya, usually not.
Driving in Japan is fantastic, especially in rural areas — Hokkaido, the Kii peninsula, the southern islands. In cities (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto) it's not advisable: traffic, very expensive parking, everything in Japanese.
Documents needed: your national licence + an International Driving Permit (IDP) based on the 1949 Geneva Convention. Issued by your motoring authority, cost ~€15–20.
Drive on the left. Traffic is orderly, roads excellent, and GPS units always include Japanese — download Google Maps offline before you go.
The JR Pass is the rail pass for tourists covering almost the entire JR network, including shinkansen (except Nozomi and Mizuho). It can only be bought before entering Japan.
Worth it if: you do at least Tokyo → Kyoto round trip by shinkansen (already ~30,000 yen). For longer itineraries (with Hiroshima, Fukuoka) the saving is even bigger.
Buy it on JRPass.com, Japan Experience or authorised agencies. It arrives as a voucher to exchange in Japan.
Japan is still very cash-based, especially in traditional restaurants, temples, markets and local trains. Always carry yen in cash.
How to withdraw: 7-Eleven and Japan Post ATMs accept foreign cards everywhere, 24/7. Low fees. Avoid airport currency exchanges.
Cards: Visa and Mastercard work in larger shops, hotels and chains. Amex less accepted. A PIN is not always required.
Shoes come off. In ryokan, many traditional restaurants, temples and private homes, you leave your shoes at the entrance. Bring socks with no holes that are easy to slip off.
Hospitals. Japan has excellent healthcare. If you need care, look for hospitals marked "International Clinic". Bring your health card and consider travel insurance with medical cover.
Tattoos. Many public onsen (hot springs) don't admit people with visible tattoos. There are private onsen (kashi-kiri) or tolerant ones — check ahead if it matters to you.
There are no bins. Japan's streets are spotless but public bins are very rare (removed after the 1995 attacks). Carry a small bag for rubbish and dispose of it at your hotel or a convenience store.
Convenience stores. 7-Eleven, Lawson, FamilyMart are far more than corner shops. Onigiri, hot bento, quality instant ramen, ATMs, printing, top-ups of everything. Going in is a ritual.