Japanese food

The dishes you must try

Japan has one of the richest and most varied cuisines in the world. Every region has its dishes, every season its flavours. This is my guide to the must-try dishes β€” the ones I look for the moment I land.

Ramen
ラーパン

First place in my heart

Ramen

ラーパン β€” rāmen

Ramen isn't one dish: it's a universe. Tonkotsu in Fukuoka, shoyu in Tokyo, miso in Sapporo, shio in Hakodate. Every region has its broth, every shop its secret β€” hours of cooking, jealously guarded ingredients. A good hot ramen at 11pm, in a steaming bowl, is one of the most satisfying experiences I know.

The specialtyEvery region has its school: tonkotsu in Fukuoka, miso in Sapporo, shoyu in Tokyo, shio in Hakodate. You'll find it excellent all over Japan β€” to pick the right place, the Tabelog app is your best friend.
Sushi
寿司

A global icon

Sushi

寿司 β€” sushi

The sushi you know back home has nothing to do with the Japanese one. Ultra-fresh fish, rice seasoned with surgical precision, no excess. Nigiri is the purest form β€” rice and fish, that's it. From Tsukiji in Tokyo to Kuromon Ichiba in Osaka: eat it at the counter, in front of the chef, at 7am.

The specialtyIt's at its best in coastal cities and fish markets β€” Tsukiji in Tokyo, Kuromon in Osaka β€” eaten at the counter early in the morning. But you'll find it everywhere, down to kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt), great and cheap across the country.
Tempura
倩ぷら

Fried, but not heavy

Tempura

倩ぷら β€” tenpura

Japanese tempura is a philosophy: the batter must be ultra-light, almost invisible. Prawns, seasonal vegetables, mushrooms β€” dipped in hot oil for a few seconds. The result is crispy outside and soft inside, never greasy or heavy. You dip it in tsuyu, a light dashi broth, and eat it right away.

The specialtyThe best are the counter tempura-ya, where the chef fries and serves piece by piece β€” Kyoto and Tokyo have places that have done it for decades. But good tempura can be found all over Japan.
Okonomiyaki
おε₯½γΏη„Όγ

The Japanese pizza

Okonomiyaki

おε₯½γΏη„Όγ β€” okonomiyaki

The name literally means "cook what you like" β€” a thick pancake on a cabbage base, with pork, seafood, noodles and whatever you prefer. In Osaka everything is cooked together (Osaka-style). In Hiroshima it's layered: first the cabbage, then the noodles, then the filling. Two opposite philosophies, both extraordinary.

The specialtyTwo homelands, two styles: Osaka (all mixed together) and Hiroshima (layered, with noodles). In Hiroshima the Okonomiyaki Mura has three floors of nothing but specialist eateries. You'll find it across the Kansai and beyond, often cooked yourself on the griddle.
Takoyaki
γŸγ“η„Όγ

Osaka street food

Takoyaki

γŸγ“η„Όγ β€” takoyaki

Soft dough balls with octopus (tako) inside, cooked in special moulds and flipped with surgical precision. On top: okonomiyaki sauce, Japanese mayo, katsuobushi (dried tuna flakes that wave in the heat), powdered nori. Hot, soft inside, irresistible. The symbol of Osaka street food.

The specialtyBorn in Osaka, the kingdom of street food: Dotonbori is its home. Today you'll find it on the street and at festivals all over Japan. Careful: the centre stays soft and scalding β€” wait a few seconds before biting.
Tonkatsu
とんか぀

The Japanese cutlet

Tonkatsu

とんか぀ β€” tonkatsu

A pork cutlet breaded in Japanese breadcrumbs (panko) and deep-fried. The crust is golden and super crispy, the meat inside soft and juicy. Served with shredded raw cabbage, rice, miso soup and the thick, sweet-and-sour tonkatsu sauce. One of Japan's most loved comfort foods, found in every region.

The specialtyWidespread across the country in specialist tonkatsu-ya. Tokyo has historic places that obsess over every detail, from the quality of the pork to the oil temperature.
Yakiniku
焼肉

Grilled at the table

Yakiniku

焼肉 β€” yakiniku

Literally "grilled meat" β€” bites of high-quality beef cooked on a brazier set into the table. You choose the cut, grill it to your liking, dip it in tare (sauce) and eat. With Kobe or Matsusaka wagyu it becomes an absolute top-level experience. A yakiniku evening with friends: hard to beat.

The specialtyThe top is with Kobe or Matsusaka wagyu, but yakiniku-ya are everywhere in Japan. For the full experience choose a specialist place with wagyu and book ahead.
Udon
うどん

The comfort of simplicity

Udon

うどん β€” udon

Thick, white wheat noodles with a satisfyingly chewy texture. In hot dashi broth (kake udon), cold with a dipping sauce (zaru udon), pan-fried (yaki udon). Kagawa prefecture (on Shikoku island) is the home of udon β€” they make it like no one else, and eat it for breakfast. Cheap, filling, perfect.

The specialtyThe home is Kagawa/Takamatsu (Shikoku), where they even eat it for breakfast. But udon is everywhere in Japan β€” in Tokyo look for the chains Marugame or Hanamaru.
Wagashi
ε’Œθ“ε­

Edible art

Wagashi

ε’Œθ“ε­ β€” wagashi

Traditional Japanese sweets are works of art: shaped by hand to depict flowers, leaves, seasonal scenes. The base is often sweetened azuki bean paste (anko). Mochi (glutinous rice dough) is the best-known form. They're eaten with matcha tea, in a ritual of aesthetics and taste that has existed for centuries. They never tire you because they're never cloying.

The specialtyKyoto is the undisputed capital of wagashi β€” the historic shops of Gion and Nishiki are a must, Nara for the mochi of Naramachi. But every region has its own versions.
Karaage
ε”ζšγ’

The ultimate fried chicken

Karaage

ε”ζšγ’ β€” karaage

Bites of chicken marinated in soy sauce, ginger and garlic, then fried in light oil. The crust is crispy and savoury, the inside juicy and tender. It seems simple β€” yet every place has its recipe, its marinade, its balance. It's the comfort food par excellence of izakaya, the Japanese pubs where you drink beer and eat in company.

The specialtyOita, in Kyushu, is considered the capital of karaage, with dozens of specialist places. But you'll find it in almost every izakaya in Japan β€” it's nearly always on the menu.